Romanians mark somber anniversary

The people of Romania are marking the 20th anniversary of the 1989 revolution which brought down communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu. Small commemorations have been held at cemeteries and sites associated with the revolution in several cities, including Bucharest and Timisoara. President Traian Basescu referred to more than 1,100 people who died during the revolution, as he was sworn in for a second term in office. Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife, Elena, were executed by a three-man firing squad, after a trial at a military base lasting only two hours on Christmas Day 1989. Matthew Brunwasser looks at how Romanians have been dealing with their recent past Continue reading “Romanians mark somber anniversary” →

The Race is On – Bulgaria

An oddly fast-paced race is on to boost the global snail supply. Demand has been boosted by recent pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications for snail flesh and shells. Plus, the free-range snail population is decreasing and they are becoming harder to find. Continue reading “The Race is On – Bulgaria” →

Illegal letters in Turkey

In Turkey, a law dating back to the 1920′s bans the use of the letters Q, W and X. The law was created for Turkey’s transition from the Arabic alphabet to the Latin one. But today, it’s used against Turkey’s ethnic Kurds. Matthew Brunwasser reports from Istanbul. Continue reading “Illegal letters in Turkey” →

Dolapdere Big Gang

Cover bands aren’t usually musical innovators. But Dolapdere Big Gang of Turkey might be the exception. Most of the group lives in Dolapdere, an Istanbul neighborhood with a rough reputation. This eight-piece band of young Roma musicians, plays Western pop hits in a traditional Turkish style. Matthew Brunwasser has the Global Hit. Continue reading “Dolapdere Big Gang” →

The Boyko Borisov show

November 16, 2009 — Sofia
Writer: Matthew Brunwasser

The professional CV of the Bulgarian Prime Minister Boyko Borisov does not read like your standard head of government: firefighter, private security company owner, black belt in karate, trainer of the national karate team, bodyguard of the former Tsar Simeon II and communist dictator Todor Zhivkov and head of the national police. Continue reading “The Boyko Borisov show” →

Bulgaria Still Stuck in Trauma of Transition

By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER

Published: November 10, 2009

SOFIA — The silence on the streets of the Bulgarian capital this week speaks volumes about this nation’s deep ambivalence about democracy.

Although Tuesday was the 20th anniversary of the removal of Bulgaria’s Communist leader, Todor Zhivkov, and the start of democratic changes here, the day went uncelebrated, even as Germany cleaned up from celebrations for the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

To explain the amnesia of Bulgarians about their Communist past, and apathy about their democratic present, Bulgarian commentators are using a biblical metaphor: Like the Israelites, the Bulgarians will have to wander the desert for 40 years to be cleansed of the sins of Communism. Continue reading “Bulgaria Still Stuck in Trauma of Transition” →

Relationship breakdown

October 29, 2009 — Istanbul
Writer: Matthew Brunwasser

There are good reasons to condemn Israel for its incursion into Gaza last December: some 1,400 Palestinians were killed as Israel got tough on Hamas a month before parliamentary elections. But Turkey’s diplomatic response has snowballed to enormous proportions – leaving Turkey-watchers wondering whether Gaza wasn’t just a convenient excuse for the Islamist government in Ankara to shed a historical ally it really considered distasteful all along. Continue reading “Relationship breakdown” →

Soap Opera Tourists

A wave of Arab tourism is washing over Istanbul – and it’s all because of racy Turkish soap operas. Last season Noor, the most popular, was watched by 85 million people across the Arab world. Monocle sets off to the Bosphorous to join the guided tour for avid viewers wishing to live the dream.

Watch on monocle.com

Taking offence, Turkish style

Offending Turkishness and common sense

October 14, 2009 — Istanbul

Writer: Matthew Brunwasser

Turkey is schizophrenic about human rights. The country has made important steps towards protecting minority rights at home and reducing conflict in the region. But at the same time it continues to brutally silence critics – unable to tolerate either political opposition or those who challenge the myths of the Turkish nation. Continue reading →

Socialist Coalition Loses in Bulgaria Election

July 6, 2009

Socialist Coalition Loses in Bulgaria Election

By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER

SOFIA, Bulgaria — Mayor Boyko Borisov of Sofia, a burly former black-belt bodyguard with a penchant for tough talk, cigars and leather jackets, led his center-right opposition party to a larger-than-expected election victory on Sunday over Bulgaria’s governing Socialist-led coalition, which was weakened by a severely deteriorating economy and voter fatigue with chronic corruption. Continue reading “Socialist Coalition Loses in Bulgaria Election” →