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	<title>Matthew Brunwasser Journalist</title>
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		<title>Turkey Silences Syrian Refugees’ Stories</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/08/turkey-silences-syrian-refugees%e2%80%99-stories/</link>
		<comments>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/08/turkey-silences-syrian-refugees%e2%80%99-stories/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:51:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Audio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[My Work]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[refugee camps]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syria]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syrian opposition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syrian refugees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turkey]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Yayladagi]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=714</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In the refugee camps along Turkey&#8217;s border with Syria, at least five babies born to Syrian women have been named Recep Tayyip,  in honor of the Turkish Prime Minister Erdogan. They are grateful to Turkey for opening its border to more than 15,000 refugees fleeing the violence next door. But at the same time, many refugees feel like prisoners in the refugee camps. While Turkey positions itself as a leading democracy in the Middle East, the refugees are not allowed to leave the camps &#8212; or talk to journalists. From the Yayladagi tent city, on the Turkish &#8211; Syrian border, Matthew Brunwasser reports.
http://media.theworld.org/audio/080420111.mp3
These Syrian refugees are desperate for their voices to be heard. But  Turkey doesn’t want you to hear them. This protest after Friday prayers  could only be recorded from outside the fence. Journalists are not  allowed inside the camp, except during the occassional specially  organized media event. The refugees’ chants demand the ouster of Syrian  President Bashar Assad.
The camp perimeter is patroled by Turkish police so I’m not able to  speak to anyone through the fence. But one refugee snuck out of the camp  to tell me his story – at the risk of being sent back to Syria if  caught. He doesn’t want to use his name.
He speaks for an hour about the protests and increasing violence and  chaos in his hometown Jisr al-Shughour. During a protest, he said,  unarmed demonstrators were shot and killed by the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In the refugee camps along Turkey&#8217;s border with Syria, at least five babies born to Syrian women have been named Recep Tayyip,  in honor of the Turkish Prime Minister Erdogan. They are grateful to Turkey for opening its border to more than 15,000 refugees fleeing the violence next door. But at the same time, many refugees feel like prisoners in the refugee camps. While Turkey positions itself as a leading democracy in the Middle East, the refugees are not allowed to leave the camps &#8212; or talk to journalists. From the Yayladagi tent city, on the Turkish &#8211; Syrian border, Matthew Brunwasser reports.<span id="more-714"></span></p>
<p><a href="http://media.theworld.org/audio/080420111.mp3">http://media.theworld.org/audio/080420111.mp3</a></p>
<p>These Syrian refugees are desperate for their voices to be heard. But  Turkey doesn’t want you to hear them. This protest after Friday prayers  could only be recorded from outside the fence. Journalists are not  allowed inside the camp, except during the occassional specially  organized media event. The refugees’ chants demand the ouster of Syrian  President Bashar Assad.</p>
<p>The camp perimeter is patroled by Turkish police so I’m not able to  speak to anyone through the fence. But one refugee snuck out of the camp  to tell me his story – at the risk of being sent back to Syria if  caught. He doesn’t want to use his name.</p>
<p>He speaks for an hour about the protests and increasing violence and  chaos in his hometown Jisr al-Shughour. During a protest, he said,  unarmed demonstrators were shot and killed by the Shabiha, a militia  loyal to Assad. Thousands of demonstrators gathered for the funeral,  angry at the deaths of their comrades.</p>
<p>“We all went to the graveyard to bury them,” the refugee said. “And  when we were coming back, the Shabiha and military police started  shooting at us with automatic rifles. The regular military didn’t want  to shoot at us, so the soldiers started to fight against the Shabiha and  the military police. Many civilians were killed in the battle.”</p>
<p>The Syrian government claims that 120 soldiers were killed by “armed  gangs” in what it calls the “heinous massacre” at Jisr al-Shughour. This  nameless refugee says the Turkish government doesnt want the world to  know the truth about the slaughter of peaceful protestors in Syria. It’s  not only journalists being denied access. Refugee and human rights  organizations are having an equally hard time.</p>
<p>“The restrictions are quite unusually severe, they really are trying  to keep whoever they can out of these camps,” says Peter Bouckaert of  Human Rights Watch.</p>
<p>Bouckaert says that under international law, which Turkey recognizes,  refugees should be allowed to live wherever they want. “In my opinion,  the Turkish authorities are afraid that if they allow the Syrian  refugees to freely tell their stories, and be outside the camps, then  information about atrocities committed inside Syria will be generated  from Turkish soil, and they would have a serious problem with their  neighbor.”</p>
<p>Relations across the 500-mile Syrian-Turkish border are tense  already. In the past few weeks, the Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip  Erdogan has used strong words against the Syrian President.  As recently  as May – after protests had already started – the prime minister  referred to Assad as “a good friend.”</p>
<p>Turkey is still trying to decide whether to back the Syrian regime or  the Syrian nation, according to Syrian opposition activist Omar Al  Muqdad.</p>
<p>“The Turkish government has a strong relations with the Syrian regime  before and now they are trying to make a balance between the Syrian  regime and the Syrian nation. So they are trying to stand in the middle  of this mess,” says Al Muqdad.</p>
<p>At the Turkish Foreign Ministry, spokesman Selcuk Unal denies that  Turkey is playing politics in the refugee camps. Turkey is concerned  about the refugees’ safety, he says, many of whom don’t want to talk to  the media because of well-founded fears of reprisals in Syria. “The  security and the order of the camps and all the adjacent areas is also  an important issue for us,” says Unal.</p>
<p>Unal says there is no reason to think Turkey wants to silence bad  news coming from Syria. And he says the Prime Minister’s strong words  against Assad are evidence of that.  But despite what Unal says, it  seems that at the Reyhanli camp residents are eager to talk. I give a  small recorder to a refugee to smuggle inside and gather stories.</p>
<p>Yusuf Esmail, from Khirbet al-Joz says he was just talking with some  relatives back home, and they said they found two corpses with their  tongues cut out, so badly-beaten they couldn’t be identified.</p>
<p>Reyhanli recently held elections for camp-wide committees. Mahmud  Moussa, an earnest schoolmaster from Jasr Al Shagur was elected to the  Media council and finagled special permission to talk to a reporter.  While camp personnel treat the Syrians with compassion, he says, its the  Turkish government’s policy he finds confusing. He’s suprised by the  tsimilarities between Syria and the “democracy” of Turkey.</p>
<p>“In Syria you can’t come in as a journalist and speak with the people  and ask them what happend with you,” says Moussa. “And also in Turkey,  in the camps, you cant come in and ask us: ‘what is happening with you?’  So now we are the same. So we are asking the Turkish government: ‘why  you are like Bashar Assad?’”</p>
<p>Turkey still calls the Syrians in the camps “guests” and not  “refugees.” And with protests in Syria expected to pick up now during  the holy month of Ramadan, the fine line Turkey maintains between the  two sides will get more precarious. The crackdown by the Assad  government shows no sign of easing.</p>
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		<title>Syrian Opposition Leads the Revolution DIY-style</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/08/syrian-opposition-leads-the-revolution-diy-style/</link>
		<comments>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/08/syrian-opposition-leads-the-revolution-diy-style/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:31:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Audio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[My Work]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Antakya]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hatay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syria]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syrian opposition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syrian protestors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Syrian revolutionaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turkey]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=701</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[ In Syria, the opposition to rule by President Bashir Al-Assad comes from a wide variety of groups, economically and socially. There are long time Syrian dissidents in exile, protestors inside Syria and refugees who have fled the current crackdown. Many of the groups met in Turkey last month and found it difficult to come together. One opposition group, made up of refugees who fled northern Syria, are working from a house in Antakya in southern Turkey. Matthew Brunwasser went to visit.
http://media.theworld.org/audio/080520116.mp3
The Syrian opposition is trying hard to get its do-it-yourself   revolution cooking. It’s breakfast for 8 young revolutionaries living in   this house. Most have never lived away from their mothers before. The   setup here is pretty basic. Most of the guys sleep on the floor. And   they are doing the cooking and cleaning for the first time in their   lives.
And they’ve certainly never worked in politics before. Political  activity in Syria, for the last 40 years, has meant supporting the  ruling Baath party or jail. These men came here just a few weeks ago  from the refugee camps inside Turkey, after an opposition supporter  agreed to pay the rent.
Nazir Al-Abdo is one of the leaders. He was studying sports at the  university in Latakia before he fled. Al-Abdo and the others don’t have  documents so their movements are limited.
“We don’t go outside at all so that nobody sees us,” Al-Abdo says.  “We [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!-- @font-face {   font-family: "Cambria"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; } --> In Syria, the opposition to rule by President Bashir Al-Assad comes from a wide variety of groups, economically and socially. There are long time Syrian dissidents in exile, protestors inside Syria and refugees who have fled the current crackdown. Many of the groups met in Turkey last month and found it difficult to come together. One opposition group, made up of refugees who fled northern Syria, are working from a house in Antakya in southern Turkey. Matthew Brunwasser went to visit.<span id="more-701"></span></p>
<p><a href="http://media.theworld.org/audio/080520116.mp3">http://media.theworld.org/audio/080520116.mp3</a></p>
<p>The Syrian opposition is trying hard to get its do-it-yourself   revolution cooking. It’s breakfast for 8 young revolutionaries living in   this house. Most have never lived away from their mothers before. The   setup here is pretty basic. Most of the guys sleep on the floor. And   they are doing the cooking and cleaning for the first time in their   lives.</p>
<p>And they’ve certainly never worked in politics before. Political  activity in Syria, for the last 40 years, has meant supporting the  ruling Baath party or jail. These men came here just a few weeks ago  from the refugee camps inside Turkey, after an opposition supporter  agreed to pay the rent.</p>
<p>Nazir Al-Abdo is one of the leaders. He was studying sports at the  university in Latakia before he fled. Al-Abdo and the others don’t have  documents so their movements are limited.</p>
<p>“We don’t go outside at all so that nobody sees us,” Al-Abdo says.  “We always hiding. We don’t have the right be here. We don’t have  passports. Al-Abdo didnt have much time to think before he fled. He was  involved in protests and still went to classes like a normal student.  But then ten minutes before his exam, his phone rang.</p>
<p>“My brother called me and said don’t enter, the security forces will  come to your university and take you,” Al-Abdo says. “I said ‘it’s not  possible. I will just go to the exam.’ He said, ‘they will come and take  you.’ I didnt go to the exam.</p>
<p>The television in the living room shows grainy cell phone images of corpses and chaos in Syria. Its the opposition <a href="http://syriaalshaab.com/" target="_blank">Syrian Al Shaab satellite channel.</a></p>
<div id="attachment_81919"><img title="Syrian democracy activists (Photo: Matthew Brunwasser)" src="http://www.theworld.org/wp-content/uploads/activists300.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></div>
<div>Nazir Al-Abdo (center) and Jamil Saeb (right) meet with fellow activist (Photo: Matthew Brunwasser)</div>
<div id="attachment_81919"></div>
<p>The  activists here prepare videos like these to get the message out about  what they call “crimes” against civilians by Syrian security forces.  Digital imagery is perhaps the perhaps the most powerful tool available  to the inexperienced, unorganized and underfunded opposition. Al-Abdo  shows me a video he says is from the town of Idlib</p>
<p>“You see a lot of people running from the shooting,” Al-Abdo says.  “You see another guy get shot in his leg. You see the blood, there’s a  lot of blood. And they didn’t have an ambulance. You can hear the  shooting, tick tick tick. This guy is dying now because no one takes him  to the hospital. you see the blood.”</p>
<p>The men in this house may not go out but they do get visitors.  Young  men show up with more videos, smuggled out on flash drives. One of them  is a 20 year old who wants to be called Ahmed.  He snuck out of his  refugee camp. Ahmed says that if he’s caught outside the camp, Turkish  authorities could send him back to Syria.</p>
<p>“Of course its dangerous,’ Ahmed says. “But I will do it for my  homeland Syria, because I have to help. The world needs to hear our  stories.” The oldest revolutionary here, at 35, is Jamil Saeb.</p>
<p>“When the protest started in Syria we had to create a new strategy,”  says Saeb. “We had no organization. People just came out and said  whatever they felt like saying. Now we are on the next level.”</p>
<div id="attachment_81923"><img title="Syrian democracy activist (Matthew Brunwasser)" src="http://www.theworld.org/wp-content/uploads/IMG_1112p-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></div>
<div>One of the activists in the apartment (Photo: Matthew Brunwasser)</div>
<div id="attachment_81923"></div>
<p>Saeb  says the opposition wants Syria to be like Egypt, not Libya. In other  words, to topple the regime through peaceful people power and  international pressure. He says violence simply wont work in Syria. His  priority, he says, is to create a small unified organization and present  clear ideas to the world. By doing things such as translating its  Arabic webpages into English.</p>
<p>Saeb says: “It’s a serious problem because we don’t have money.  And  these opposition groups who just met in Antalya, in Turkey, they spent a  lot of money for a 5 star hotel, for talking and meetings and  accomplishing nothing. We should be using this money for technology,  logistics, translations, and communications.”</p>
<p>Al-Abdo is watching another video of protests in Syria. “You see they  shot just on innocent people,” Al-Abdo says. “You see how they run,  they will die for freedom.” Nazir Al-Abdo is frustrated.</p>
<p>No foreign reporters are allowed in Syria, so independent  verifications of activists’ accounts are not possible. And he’s tired of  having to prove that the Syrian government is brutalizing its people.  But clearly the message is getting out. The United Nations has condemned  the Assad regime in Syria.  But Al-Abdo and others wonder why America  and Europe aren’t doing more.</p>
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		<title>The Pyramid of Enver Hoxha in Tirana, Albania</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/08/enver-hoxha%e2%80%99s-pyramid-in-tirana-albania/</link>
		<comments>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/08/enver-hoxha%e2%80%99s-pyramid-in-tirana-albania/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:15:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Audio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Albania]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Enver Hoxha]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hoxha's pyramid]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tirana]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tirana Pyramid]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=722</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The landmark was  built as a museum for the late Enver Hoxha. The Albanian leader kept  Stalinism alive in Europe for decades after the Soviet dictator died in  1953. The pyramid is still standing but it’s starting to crumble. In fact, during bloody anti-government demonstrations in Tirana back  in February protestors broke off pieces of the pyramid to throw at other  government buildings. Albanians have been trying to figure out what to do with the pyramid  for years. Just last month, the parliament passed a law to tear it down.  Even so, opponents of the demolition are gathering petitions to save  the building. And the current president is deciding whether to sign the  bill or side with the protesters. From Tirana, Matthew Brunwasser gives us a tour of the controversial pyramid.
http://media.theworld.org/audio/080220118.mp3
If there’s any one place which encapsulates Albania’s rocky ride from communist hermit state to anything-goes “wild, wild east,” its probably the pyramid. The bizarre monument-museum is something like eight stories tall. Its housed an international cultural center, a café and the US Agency for international development. One of Albania’s first independent TV stations is still operating here. Skerdi Drenova from Top Channel is showing me around.
&#8220;This is another control room,&#8221; says Drenova. &#8220;It&#8217;s called &#8216;disco&#8217; and was built for a nightclub in 1991 but it never opened so we took it and transformed it into production studio. &#8220;We produce our investigative program here…. &#8221;
In the café at the base of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The landmark was  built as a museum for the late Enver Hoxha. The Albanian leader kept  Stalinism alive in Europe for decades after the Soviet dictator died in  1953. The pyramid is still standing but it’s starting to crumble. In fact, during bloody anti-government demonstrations in Tirana back  in February protestors broke off pieces of the pyramid to throw at other  government buildings. Albanians have been trying to figure out what to do with the pyramid  for years. Just last month, the parliament passed a law to tear it down.  Even so, opponents of the demolition are gathering petitions to save  the building. And the current president is deciding whether to sign the  bill or side with the protesters. From Tirana, Matthew Brunwasser gives us a tour of the controversial pyramid.<span id="more-722"></span></p>
<p><a href="http://media.theworld.org/audio/080220118.mp3">http://media.theworld.org/audio/080220118.mp3</a></p>
<p>If there’s any one place which encapsulates Albania’s rocky ride from communist hermit state to anything-goes “wild, wild east,” its probably the pyramid. The bizarre monument-museum is something like eight stories tall. Its housed an international cultural center, a café and the US Agency for international development. One of Albania’s first independent TV stations is still operating here. Skerdi Drenova from Top Channel is showing me around.</p>
<p>&#8220;This is another control room,&#8221; says Drenova. &#8220;It&#8217;s called &#8216;disco&#8217; and was built for a nightclub in 1991 but it never opened so we took it and transformed it into production studio. &#8220;We produce our investigative program here…. &#8221;</p>
<p>In the café at the base of the pyramid, Albanian journalists enjoy macchiatos and cigarettes while they discuss the issues of the day. A parliamentary committee has voted to tear down the pyramid and to build a new parliament building in its place. But the decision is still not final. Top Channel employees clearly have a good reason to want to save the building. But many here oppose destroying it for philosophical reasons.</p>
<p>&#8220;It&#8217;s part of our country, we can not destory everyting that we had,&#8221; says journalist Alisa Mysliu. &#8220;It&#8217;s part of us. Even communism, even the good things. It’s a part of our country. It&#8217;s part of our history. Have you destroyed everything in your country that brings you bad memories?&#8221;</p>
<p>Mysliu&#8217;s colleage Helidon Tahiraj writes for one of the current affairs programs and used to be a prosecutor. He says its hard for Albanians to deal with the communist past because the old system still lives inside people’s heads.</p>
<p>Tahiraj says: &#8220;Many people in Albania have strong links with communism, some of them have been spies for the secret police, like the Stasi or KGB, but here it was the Sigurimi Shtetit. They’ve got nostalgia, they have links with the past. Albania is changing, but not in the right direction. It&#8217;s going to take a long time, probably a generation or two.&#8221;</p>
<p>From the outside, the pyramid looks abandoned and decayed. The marble surface is gone and the concrete shell is broken and covered with graffiti. The passersby spoken with all wanted it fixed – not erased. People like Hajrije Vito who works in a shoe factory.</p>
<p>&#8220;Well, now it’s ruined,&#8221; says Vito. &#8220;When the building was new, it was beautiful. We used to visit inside to see the exhibits, but now look at the state it’s in. What’s there to like about it?  If they fix it and put some money into repairs and renovation it could be something useful and nice for the young people.</p>
<p>One might be tempted to view the difficulties Albanians have in deciding the pyramid’s future as symbolic of the country’s difficult post-communist transition. But the Albanians talked to see the inaction and bickering about the monument as a symbol of their leaders’ corruption and incompetence.</p>
<p>Eralda Murataj, a student of finance, says &#8220;I think its been used to avoid people noticing other probems which are more important than the pyramid itself. that’s what I think. I think it should stay where it is.&#8221;</p>
<p>If the new parliament is built here, it is supposed to open for business in November 2012 – in time to celebrate the Centenial of Albania’s indepedence. This makes Albanians think of their future parliament building much like their democracy: they’re not expecting a great job.</p>
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		<title>Bosniaks and Croats, Divided in Class and at Play</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/08/bosniaks-and-croats-divided-in-class-and-at-play/</link>
		<comments>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/08/bosniaks-and-croats-divided-in-class-and-at-play/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:04:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[International Herald Tribune]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[My Work]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Print]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bosnia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bosnia and Herzegovina]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bosniak]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Croat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Croatia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[divided schools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ethnic division]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=673</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER

VITEZ, BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA — Every morning at the local grade school formerly known as Brotherhood  and Unity, the Catholic Croat children head to the right, and the  Bosnian Muslims head to the left.
The Croats study in the school’s cheerful looking main building, which  was recently renovated. The Muslims attend class in the crumbling, dingy  annex next door.
The school ended up behind the Croat line during the 1992-95 war that  killed some 100,000 people. It has remained there ever since.
(Photo:  Ziyah Gafic)
The children’s fathers fought one of the fiercest battles between  Bosnian Muslims and Croats, former allies against the Serbs who turned  against each other. Vitez was inside “the ring” — an enclave within an  enclave — a Bosnian Muslim enclave surrounded by Croat militia, which  itself was surrounded by Muslim forces.
Today, the divisions remain sharp, especially at the school.
“I would rather move out of town than send my child to a mixed school,”  said Borislav Krizanac, 32, a Croat flooring installer. “There is big  hatred here.”
These schoolchildren were not even born 15 years ago when the Dayton  agreement stopped the fighting and created two entities: the  Bosnian-Croat Federation and the Serbian Republic. The complex balance  between the three ethnic groups — Serbs, Croats and Bosnian Muslims —  has cemented the divisions rather than healed them, local residents say.  Reconciliation has definitely not happened.
At the school — now called Vitez Primary School, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h6>By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER</h6>
<div id="articleBody">
<p>VITEZ, <a title="More news and information about Bosnia and Herzegovina." href="http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/international/countriesandterritories/bosniaandherzegovina/index.html?inline=nyt-geo">BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA</a> — Every morning at the local grade school formerly known as Brotherhood  and Unity, the Catholic Croat children head to the right, and the  Bosnian Muslims head to the left.</p>
<p>The Croats study in the school’s cheerful looking main building, which  was recently renovated. The Muslims attend class in the crumbling, dingy  annex next door.</p>
<p>The school ended up behind the Croat line during the 1992-95 war that  killed some 100,000 people. It has remained there ever since.<span id="more-673"></span></p>
<p>(Photo:  <a href="www.ziyahgafic.ba">Ziyah Gafic</a>)</p>
<p>The children’s fathers fought one of the fiercest battles between  Bosnian Muslims and Croats, former allies against the Serbs who turned  against each other. Vitez was inside “the ring” — an enclave within an  enclave — a Bosnian Muslim enclave surrounded by Croat militia, which  itself was surrounded by Muslim forces.</p>
<p>Today, the divisions remain sharp, especially at the school.</p>
<p>“I would rather move out of town than send my child to a mixed school,”  said Borislav Krizanac, 32, a Croat flooring installer. “There is big  hatred here.”</p>
<p>These schoolchildren were not even born 15 years ago when the Dayton  agreement stopped the fighting and created two entities: the  Bosnian-Croat Federation and the Serbian Republic. The complex balance  between the three ethnic groups — Serbs, Croats and Bosnian Muslims —  has cemented the divisions rather than healed them, local residents say.  Reconciliation has definitely not happened.</p>
<p>At the school — now called Vitez Primary School, with 820 students in  the Croat main building, and 500 Muslims in the annex — children say  that fights between students are common, usually triggered by  differences of religion or language. The two schools operate on the same  schedule, and teachers say they have to make special efforts to  maintain order during breaks.</p>
<p>“They can stop the fights,” said Rijad Pedljak, a Muslim eighth-grader  with enormous brown eyes. “But they can’t stop the war.”</p>
<p>There are 34 such schools in the Bosnian Federation, according to the  Federation Minister of Education and Science, Damir Masic, and while  they come in several variations, the minister categorizes all of them as  “divided.” Nine house two separate schools, Muslim and Croat, under one  roof; 12 are unified but students study in separate classrooms; six  operate as single legal entities that include classes for other schools;  and six send students out to other schools for classes in a different  curriculum. One school building houses both a primary and a high school  with two curriculums.</p>
<p>Mr. Masic took his post in October and said that while unification is a  priority, it will be difficult because education policy is almost  completely run by the Bosnian Federation’s 10 cantons.</p>
<p>He has some budgetary powers to influence the cantons, but he expects  fierce resistance from politicians who he says care only about playing  ethnic politics and “trying to destroy this country.”</p>
<p>“These politicians all used to go to school together under one roof,”  said Mr. Masic. “For centuries, we have always lived together, not next  to each other,” he said in an interview in Sarajevo. “This is a problem  which has only existed for 20 years.”</p>
<p>Several institutions in Vitez are still divided: neighborhoods, sports  clubs and even the fire department. The Muslims held the fire station  during the war so the Croats had to form their own.</p>
<p>“In Vitez every thing is duplicated,” said the commander of the Muslim  firehouse, Senad Omanovic, 55. “If they have it, we have to have one,  too.”</p>
<p>There is only one emergency phone number for the fire department. Calls  are automatically forwarded to the Muslim or Croat branches based on the  prefix of the caller’s mobile operator. Despite more or less equal  service coverage, Muslims use BH Telecom and Croats use Eronet. It is no  longer necessary to ask a Bosnian’s name to understand their ethnicity:  their phone number is enough.</p>
<p>The Croatian firehouse is in a temporary structure in the center, the  Croat part of town. Equipment is sparse. Mr. Krizanac, the flooring  installer, who was getting his fire extinguisher inspected there,  expressed strong feelings about his neighbors in Vitez.</p>
<p>One of the worst offenses, he said, is when Muslims use religious  greetings such as “salaam aleikum” instead of “good day” in public  institutions like city hall. To Croats, such postwar habits smack of  Muslim triumphalism. “I get angry and I curse at them,” he said.</p>
<p>Asked how he would feel about calling the Muslim fire department to put  out a fire in his house, Mr. Krizanac was unequivocal: “I’d let it  burn.”</p>
<p>The Hotel Vitez was the former base of the Jokers, a unit of the  Croatian Defense Council whose commander, Anto Furundzija, was sentenced  in 2000 to 10 years imprisonment by the International Criminal Tribunal  for the former Yugoslavia in the Hague.</p>
<p>Recently renovated in cheerful colors, its spacious hallways are mostly empty.</p>
<p>“It’s a myth that the past is forgotten,” said a receptionist, Ivan  Krizanovic, 26. Mulims and Croats are friends, he said, “only when it’s a  business lunch.” He said the hatred emerges only after alcohol and most  often during holidays: from Croats celebrating Christmas or Muslims  during the Islamic Bayram.</p>
<p>At the municipal building in town, Deputy Mayor Marija Grabovac said  that the problems of the school have been exaggerated by a Bosnian  Muslim political party to score points. She said that Muslim parents  send their children to the divided school, even if they have a better  school closer by, “just to be able to say: ‘This school is so crowded,  look at the bad conditions.”’</p>
<p>Muslims make similar accusations: that the Croatian political parties  pressure parents to send children to the school from far away so that  Muslims won’t fill the empty classroom spaces and eventually “take  over.”</p>
<p>Many Croats in Vitez and elsewhere in Bosnia express fears of losing  their voice among the larger Muslim population of the Federation, which  is about 70 percent Bosnian Muslim, 5 percent Serb and 25 percent Croat,  according to estimates by international officials.</p>
<p>“When I look at the kids in the yard after recess going their separate  ways to school, it feels strange to me,” said the Croat school  principal, Slavica Serbetic. “But for them it’s normal, its the only way  they’ve ever known.”</p>
<p>In the hallway of the Croat school, Ana Blaz, 13, was doing hall monitor  duty wearing a T-shirt reading: “Life is too short to date ugly guys.”</p>
<p>All kids should study together, she said. She doesn’t know why they  don’t, although it might have something to do with the fights. “There is  one boy, Martin, who is always starting fights” with the Muslims.</p>
<p>“We are fighting over words, and we will be for a long time” said Ana,  who said she expects another war. “The way things are going it could be  soon.”</p>
<p>Dajana Drmic, 11, disagreed about sharing classrooms with Muslims. “It’s  better that we’re separated,” she said. She said she was more  comfortable around Croats because Muslims “watch different TV shows” and  use different words.</p>
<p>According to the principal of the Bosnian Muslim school, Armin Imamovic,  “people are afraid of losing their language and their identity. They  are afraid they will disappear if they study together.”</p>
<p>“It won’t change,” said Laris Horic, a tall and skinny 14-year-old  Muslim who plays violin and has Croatian friends through her music  class. “People are like that,” she said. “They don’t want it to change.”</p>
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		<title>Macedonia Plays Up Past Glory</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/06/macedonia-plays-up-past-glory/</link>
		<comments>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/06/macedonia-plays-up-past-glory/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jun 2011 13:32:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[International Herald Tribune]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Alexander]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Skopje]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=654</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER
SKOPJE, Macedonia — In the view of many here, the neighbors have been  bullying this little Balkan country for a long time.
Bulgarians see its people as Bulgarians with accents. Serbia used to  consider the land Southern Serbia and refuses to recognize its church.  Greece accuses the country of nothing less than stealing its name,  history and national symbols.
This week, Macedonia pushed back.
In a precisely calibrated display of political and civil engineering,  workers lifted a 14.5-meter, or 47-foot, bronze statue of Alexander the  Great, weighing 30 tons, and placed it on a 15-meter-high pedestal in  the central square of Skopje, the capital.
(Photo: Georgi Licovski/European Pressphoto Agency)
“This is a way for Macedonia to affirm its national existence,” said  Vasiliki Neofotistos, an anthropologist from the State University of New  York at Buffalo studying identity politics in Macedonia. “Macedonia  wants to advance the thesis that it is a cornerstone of Western  civilization.”
This is no mere philosophical dilemma. Macedonia has been stuck in one  of the most intractable disputes of the post-communist world: Greece has  held international relations hostage for 20 years because it considers  the name Macedonia an appropriation of its own Hellenic identity and its  northern province of the same name.
If it can’t have riches, Macedonia, a country of two million with 31  percent unemployment, wants recognition. Playing up ties to an ancient  global celebrity resonates with people who believe that they have been [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER</p>
<p>SKOPJE, Macedonia — In the view of many here, the neighbors have been  bullying this little Balkan country for a long time.</p>
<p>Bulgarians see its people as Bulgarians with accents. Serbia used to  consider the land Southern Serbia and refuses to recognize its church.  Greece accuses the country of nothing less than stealing its name,  history and national symbols.</p>
<p>This week, Macedonia pushed back.</p>
<p>In a precisely calibrated display of political and civil engineering,  workers lifted a 14.5-meter, or 47-foot, bronze statue of Alexander the  Great, weighing 30 tons, and placed it on a 15-meter-high pedestal in  the central square of Skopje, the capital.<span id="more-654"></span></p>
<p>(Photo: Georgi Licovski/European Pressphoto Agency)</p>
<p>“This is a way for Macedonia to affirm its national existence,” said  Vasiliki Neofotistos, an anthropologist from the State University of New  York at Buffalo studying identity politics in Macedonia. “Macedonia  wants to advance the thesis that it is a cornerstone of Western  civilization.”</p>
<p>This is no mere philosophical dilemma. Macedonia has been stuck in one  of the most intractable disputes of the post-communist world: Greece has  held international relations hostage for 20 years because it considers  the name Macedonia an appropriation of its own Hellenic identity and its  northern province of the same name.</p>
<p>If it can’t have riches, Macedonia, a country of two million with 31  percent unemployment, wants recognition. Playing up ties to an ancient  global celebrity resonates with people who believe that they have been  marginalized for centuries.</p>
<p>“We are proud of Alexander,” said Petko Bozhinovski, 48, who wore a  black T-shirt with the Macedonian flag as the statue was raised Tuesday  to the applause of several hundred bystanders.</p>
<p>“Finally, our Alexander has come back to his homeland,” he said.</p>
<p>The project is controversial — it cost €9.4 million, or $13 million. But  some things, say statue fans, are priceless. “If you lose your  identity, you are a nobody,” said Alexandar Ristevski, 32, an  ethnographer.</p>
<p>Macedonia was promised an invitation to join NATO in 2008, but this was  vetoed by Greece because the name issue was unresolved. In 2005,  Macedonia also became a candidate for the European Union, but still has  no date to start accession talks because of Greek resistance.</p>
<p>“Why should we change our name because of Greece?” said Alex  Trajanovski, a retired diplomat, who said Macedonia had been recognized  under that name by 135 countries. Zoran Iliev, a border policeman, said,  “No European Union is worth changing the name.”</p>
<p>Greece is equally stubborn. On Tuesday, as the Greek Parliament debated a  crucial vote of confidence in the government, Stavros Lambrinidis, the  foreign minister, told deputies that the statue was a major point of  foreign policy, “a provocation” that fanned “irredentism, the greatest  threat to the Balkans.”</p>
<p>Mr. Lambrinidis said Greece had proposed a name with a geographical  qualifier to settle the dispute. The Macedonian Foreign Ministry  declined to comment.</p>
<p>When Macedonia declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, Greece  immediately protested the name and flag — accusing the new country of  staking claims to Greek territory and of trying to separate ancient  Macedonian civilization from Hellenic culture.</p>
<p>Athens refused to recognize its northern neighbor and organized an  embargo. The two countries signed an interim accord in 1995 under which  Macedonia would be referred to internationally as the Former Yugoslav  Republic of Macedonia. In exchange, Greece lifted its embargo,  recognized this provisional name and agreed not to block membership in  international institutions.</p>
<p>Almost 16 years later, both sides are still negotiating a new name. They  have indicated they might consider a geographical modifier of  Macedonia, such as Northern Macedonia — favored by Greece — or Macedonia  (Skopje), which the Macedonians like.</p>
<p>Meanwhile, Macedonia has filed suit with the International Court of  Justice in The Hague against Greece, accusing it of violating the 1995  agreement. A decision is expected in September.</p>
<p>The statue is part of a controversial face lift for Skopje — a city  whose old center was flattened in an earthquake in 1963 — including 15  new buildings, the renovation of old ones and a triumphal arch.</p>
<p>The government estimated the bill for renovation at €80 million in 2009,  but the opposition says costs have already risen to €200 million. No  official figures are available.</p>
<p>The government of Prime Minister Nikola Gruevski has also given  Alexander’s name to the airport in Skopje, a highway and a stadium. The  inauguration of the Alexander statue is expected on independence day,  Sept. 8.</p>
<p>“This attempt to rebuild the Macedonian nation is definitely destroying  the chances for compromise” with Greece, said Vladimir Milcin, executive  director of the Open Society Foundation Macedonia. Mr. Milcin noted  that the European Union’s enlargement commissioner, Stefan Fule, called  the statue a “provocation” and suggested for the first time that  Macedonia’s move toward Europe was going backward.</p>
<p>But neither Mr. Milcin nor a Western diplomat who insisted on anonymity  thought this would deter the prime minister. “It’s just adding fuel to  his power and image that he is the final and only defender of Macedonian  name, identity and culture,” Mr. Milcin said.</p>
<p>Macedonia’s identity politics are further complicated by the restive 25  percent of its population who are ethnic Albanians. In 2001, the ethnic  Albanian National Liberation Army fought a six-month war against the  majority.</p>
<p>Rafis Aliti, a former fighter with the Albanian rebels, and now deputy  speaker of Parliament, said the name dispute worried Albanians because  “there will be no prospects for the future, no security and foreign  investment.”</p>
<p>The lure of Macedonian lore has grown in recent years. Alexander has  helped buttress the nation against the trauma of the free market,  political strife and independence, said Pasko Kuzman, an archaeologist  with the Ministry of Culture.</p>
<p>“Alexander conquered the world,” he added. “Would you ever give up something like that? I don’t think so.”</p>
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		<title>Nationalism Fading From Serbia&#8217;s Political Stage</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/06/nationalism-fading-from-serbias-political-stage/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Jun 2011 11:40:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[International Herald Tribune]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Belgrade]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=676</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER

BELGRADE — In a country that nurtures a grudge about an event that  occurred more than 600 years ago, once-fiery Serbian nationalism now  seems strangely muted.
With the 68-year-old General Ratko Mladic settling into his prison cell in The Hague, the relative silence with  which Serbs greeted his arrest and extradition speaks volumes about the  turnaround taken by the country’s leadership and the fading of  nationalism as an issue from the political stage.
A Belgrade street protest on May 29 against the arrest of Mr. Mladic  drew an estimated 10,000 people, smaller than the crowds that typically  gather after important soccer matches. The major political parties  accepted the extradition, after 15 years of mounting international  pressure, as the price of getting closer to Europe.
“Serbia has never had a well-defined nationalist agenda,” said Srdjan  Bogosavljevic, a pollster and director at Ipsos Strategic Marketing in  Belgrade. Mr. Bogosavljevic noted that the other Yugoslav republics  built their nationalism on freedom from the Yugoslav federation, with  its capital here in Belgrade. The Serbs, by contrast, mostly express  disappointment at having failed to prevent them from leaving.
The mood reflects the country’s tormented post-communist history. Serbia  has changed its political structure, territory, currency and name so  often since the wars of the early 1990s that only 20 percent of Serbs  can name their national day.
(Photo: Matt Lutton)
Mr. Bogosavljevic said that one presidential candidate displayed the  wrong flag of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER</p>
<div id="articleBody">
<p>BELGRADE — In a country that nurtures a grudge about an event that  occurred more than 600 years ago, once-fiery Serbian nationalism now  seems strangely muted.</p>
<p>With the 68-year-old General <a title="More articles about Ratko Mladic." href="http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/m/ratko_mladic/index.html?inline=nyt-per">Ratko Mladic</a> settling into his prison cell in The Hague, the relative silence with  which Serbs greeted his arrest and extradition speaks volumes about the  turnaround taken by the country’s leadership and the fading of  nationalism as an issue from the political stage.</p>
<p>A Belgrade street protest on May 29 against the arrest of Mr. Mladic  drew an estimated 10,000 people, smaller than the crowds that typically  gather after important soccer matches. The major political parties  accepted the extradition, after 15 years of mounting international  pressure, as the price of getting closer to Europe.<span id="more-676"></span></p>
<p>“<a title="More news and information about Serbia." href="http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/international/countriesandterritories/serbia/index.html?inline=nyt-geo">Serbia</a> has never had a well-defined nationalist agenda,” said Srdjan  Bogosavljevic, a pollster and director at Ipsos Strategic Marketing in  Belgrade. Mr. Bogosavljevic noted that the other Yugoslav republics  built their nationalism on freedom from the Yugoslav federation, with  its capital here in Belgrade. The Serbs, by contrast, mostly express  disappointment at having failed to prevent them from leaving.</p>
<p>The mood reflects the country’s tormented post-communist history. Serbia  has changed its political structure, territory, currency and name so  often since the wars of the early 1990s that only 20 percent of Serbs  can name their national day.</p>
<p>(Photo: <a href="http://www.mattlutton.com">Matt Lutton</a>)</p>
<p>Mr. Bogosavljevic said that one presidential candidate displayed the  wrong flag of his country on his campaign advertisement.</p>
<p>The nationalism associated with Serbia — anti-Western, chauvinist,  homophobic and violent — still exists among the same small portion of  the population but now with one important difference.</p>
<p>“The political elite is not provoking it,” Mr. Bogosavljevic said.</p>
<p>Mr. Mladic is considered a hero by 51 percent of Serbs, according to a  poll taken by the Ipsos agency the day after the arrest, but 45 percent  think the arrest was in Serbia’s national interest while only 36 percent  say it was damaging.</p>
<p>A little more than half of all Serbs would vote for European Union  membership, Mr. Bogosavljevic estimated, but the major parties  supporting E.U. membership represent 88 percent of the Serbian  electorate.</p>
<p>And while polls show Serbs significantly more pro-Russian than  pro-European, few Serbs would choose to send their children to study in  Moscow rather than Paris or London.</p>
<p>In contrast to the previous weekend’s anemic protest, some 150,000 joined a demonstration after <a title="More news and information about Kosovo." href="http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/international/countriesandterritories/serbia/kosovo/index.html?inline=nyt-geo">Kosovo</a> declared independence in 2008.</p>
<p>Extreme nationalists among them stormed and burned the U.S. Embassy in Belgrade and attacked foreign-owned shops.</p>
<p>The protest was organized by the nationalist government of Vojislav  Kostunica, who analysts said loosened security to allow crowds to let  off steam.</p>
<p>The protests last week were organized by the tiny Serbian Radical Party,  whose leader, Vojislav Seselj, is currently in The Hague facing  charges.</p>
<p>One of the major domestic political moves that has marginalized  nationalism as a political force was the split within the Radicals,  leading Mr. Seselj’s former deputy, Tomislav Nikolic, to form the new  pro-E.U. Serbian Progressive Party.</p>
<p>“People are not jubilant about the European Union,” Aleksandar Vucic,  the deputy party leader, said in an interview in the Progressives’ new  office. “But they realize we need to go that way and there is nowhere  else to go.”</p>
<p>“We still need to have our own policy, but of course we’ll have to make many compromises,” he added.</p>
<p>While the European Union has not made recognition of Kosovo a  requirement — many E.U. members also refuse to recognize it — there is  growing international pressure for an agreement between Serbia and  Kosovo to foster regional stability.</p>
<p>“Kosovo is not easy for us but we’ll have to live with it,” Mr. Vucic said.</p>
<p>Kosovo remains a powerful touchstone here, even for Boris Tadic, the  solidly pro-European president of Serbia, who boycotted a summit meeting  of Central and East European leaders in Warsaw on May 27 because of the  presence of President Atifete Jahjaga of Kosovo.</p>
<p>The meeting would have included talks with President Barack Obama.</p>
<p>The legend of Serbia’s defeat on the Battle of Kosovo Polje in 1389 and  the current situation of a Serb minority and Orthodox churches in a  predominantly Muslim country continue to stoke genuine passions among  Serbs.</p>
<p>The former Serbian province occupies a powerful place in the Serbian  psyche and provides an eternal source of nationalism for political  leaders to tap into.</p>
<p>Extreme nationalists, like the Serbian National Movement 1389, view Mr. Tadic as a traitor.</p>
<p>“Tadic is a dictator,” said Igor Marinkovic, 29, from the leadership of  the movement, arguing that the president controls the media and uses the  police to crush nationalists.</p>
<p>But Mr. Marinkovic’s movement counts only 2,000 active members. It is  collecting signatures to register as a political party to contest the  2012 general elections and has merged with a Serbian franchise of the  Russian nationalist youth organization “Nashi.”</p>
<p>“The end of this regime will be in the street, not in elections,”  insists Mr. Marinkovic, who says the public will rise up as the  government’s alleged economic mismanagement and corruption becomes more  evident.</p>
<p>A group called Obraz is a larger extremist nationalist group, dedicated  to a Serbian Orthodox Christian agenda and the Serbian monarchy.</p>
<p>It was especially vocal in opposing a Belgrade gay pride march in  October, putting up posters warning that “We Wait for You” in the week  before the parade.</p>
<p>Western embassies in Belgrade endorsed the march, and E.U. officials  called on the Serbian government to uphold equal rights for all.</p>
<p>After being canceled by the authorities in 2009, the march went ahead in  2010 with a heavy police presence and passed through practically empty  streets. Violence, which was mainly directed at the police, left 127  officers injured.</p>
<p>During the era of Mr. Kostunica, who led the revolution to remove President <a title="More articles about Slobodan Milosevic." href="http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/m/slobodan_milosevic/index.html?inline=nyt-per">Slobodan Milosevic</a> in 2000 before leaving power in 2008, young street protesters were  widely believed to receive support from nationalist parties for doing  their dirty work. No direct evidence, like bank transfers, was ever  found, though.</p>
<p>“For the moment, they are in retreat,” said Marko Mamuzic, who has  directed a documentary film about Serbian youth nationalist groups.  “They are not so present in the political scene as they were five years  ago.”</p>
<p>He expects the retreat to continue as Serbia gets closer to the European  Union and says the only chance for their political comeback would be a  Greece-style economic meltdown.</p>
<p>One of the sharpest voices to speak out against virulent nationalism has  been an unusual cultural institution located in the former East German  Embassy: the Center for Cultural Decontamination.</p>
<p>Founded in 1994 by Borka Pavicevic, a steely dramaturg with a voice made  gravelly by cigarettes, the center is dedicated to countering the use  of culture in pumping up Serbian nationalism.</p>
<p>Ms. Pavicevic is cautiously optimistic after the arrest of Mr. Mladic.  “It’s better now than ever,” she said. “It was a last-minute rescue, of  course.”</p>
<p>But she is afraid that the government still has no clear strategy for  cleansing virulent nationalism from Serbian society.</p>
<p>The public needs to deal with the crimes committed by Mr. Mladic and  accept responsibility, she said, but instead it is told nothing more  than “we need to be in the European Union in order to get the money.”</p>
<p>“You can’t solve all the problems of this state just by changing the image,” Ms. Pavicevic added.</p>
</div>
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		<title>A Fugitive in Their Midst? ‘Ridiculous,’ Villagers Say</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/05/a-fugitive-in-their-midst-%e2%80%98ridiculous%e2%80%99-villagers-say/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 29 May 2011 11:20:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[International Herald Tribune]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=680</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER

LAZAREVO, Serbia — This village near the Romanian border is Everytown,  an indistinguishable collection of tidy lawns and trimmed trees, where  the local people have been rocked by the news that Ratko Mladic, one of the world’s most wanted war crimes suspects, had been found hiding out among them.
They say it couldn’t be true.
“There is no chance that he was living here,” said the village mayor,  Radmilo Stanisic, reflecting the general sentiment in this tightknit  community. “Everyone knows everyone here. We’re like a big family.”
Lazarevo is a farming village of 3,000 residents about 50 miles north of  Belgrade, a place where even lifelong residents are hard pressed to  think of anything that would distinguish it from scores of other  communities scattered across the flat and fertile Vojvodina region of  northern Serbia.
Until Thursday, that is, when the village was briefly overrun by  reporters and photographers reacting to the news from Belgrade that the  authorities had found and arrested Mr. Mladic in Lazarevo.
(Photo: Matt Lutton)
Outraged by the journalistic invasion and fueled by the view that Mr.  Mladic is a Serbian hero, not a war criminal, a crowd of 150 angry  villagers responded by blocking the road leading to the house where the  fugitive, a former Bosnian Serb general, had been hiding — or at least,  where the authorities claimed he had been hiding. Because, as the  villagers maintain, he was never living there to begin [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By MATTHEW BRUNWASSER</p>
<div id="articleBody">
<p>LAZAREVO, Serbia — This village near the Romanian border is Everytown,  an indistinguishable collection of tidy lawns and trimmed trees, where  the local people have been rocked by the news that <a title="More articles about Ratko Mladic." href="http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/m/ratko_mladic/index.html?inline=nyt-per">Ratko Mladic</a>, one of the world’s most wanted war crimes suspects, <a title="Times article" href="http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/27/world/europe/27ratko-mladic.html">had been found</a> hiding out among them.</p>
<p>They say it couldn’t be true.</p>
<p>“There is no chance that he was living here,” said the village mayor,  Radmilo Stanisic, reflecting the general sentiment in this tightknit  community. “Everyone knows everyone here. We’re like a big family.”<span id="more-680"></span></p>
<p>Lazarevo is a farming village of 3,000 residents about 50 miles north of  Belgrade, a place where even lifelong residents are hard pressed to  think of anything that would distinguish it from scores of other  communities scattered across the flat and fertile Vojvodina region of  northern <a title="More news and information about Serbia." href="http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/international/countriesandterritories/serbia/index.html?inline=nyt-geo">Serbia</a>.</p>
<p>Until Thursday, that is, when the village was briefly overrun by  reporters and photographers reacting to the news from Belgrade that the  authorities had found and arrested Mr. Mladic in Lazarevo.</p>
<p>(Photo: <a href="http://www.mattlutton.com">Matt Lutton</a>)</p>
<p>Outraged by the journalistic invasion and fueled by the view that Mr.  Mladic is a Serbian hero, not a war criminal, a crowd of 150 angry  villagers responded by blocking the road leading to the house where the  fugitive, a former Bosnian Serb general, had been hiding — or at least,  where the authorities claimed he had been hiding. Because, as the  villagers maintain, he was never living there to begin with.</p>
<p>“It’s ridiculous,” said Vesela Medjo, 53, a shopkeeper wearing heavy eye  makeup and flip-flops whose mother lives across the road from the  suspect residence. “They brought him here to make the arrest. It was  just a setup to make less of a fuss.”</p>
<p>“No one saw anything,” Ms. Medjo said. “It happened so fast.”</p>
<p>Actually, she said, she did see something — a black jeep with a Belgrade  license plate in the garden of the house across the road. But the jeep  that was shown on television taking Mr. Mladic away was white, she said,  evidence that the villagers were correct in suspecting that the whole  thing was staged. She said the authorities brought Mr. Mladic to a  relative’s house for the arrest to make it seem more credible after he  had been at large for so long.</p>
<p>The house in question belongs to Branislav Mladic, a cousin of the  former general, and is about as nondescript as the town. It is one of  several modest beige country houses in a small compound with a rusty  metal gate in front and a yard littered with farm implements behind.</p>
<p>The village mayor called the family of Branislav Mladic, who was also  arrested on Thursday, “an honest and hard-working family” who did not  deserve to be thrust into the spotlight.</p>
<p>The mayor said local people were “confused” and “bitter” about the  arrests, and resented the bad image these events had given the town. But  on Friday, life appeared to have returned to normal, with children  playing in the leafy park and adults tending gardens as always.</p>
<p>The town has a scrappy side. One resident, who appeared to have had a  lot to drink, shouted at passing journalists, “You only go after Serbs,  and no one else!”</p>
<p>Many residents refused to discuss Ratko Mladic, who is related to three  or four local families, according to the mayor. Those who did comment  said they were no more or less supportive of Mr. Mladic than they were  of other fellow Serbs. Many people in the region are Bosnian Serbs who  moved to Vojvodina after World War II.</p>
<p>“If I’d known he was here, I would’ve invited him to stay in my house,”  said Miroslav Stanic, 37, who was reading a newspaper at the local  trafika, a corner store common in the Balkans where residents buy  cigarettes, beer and newspapers and often stop to chat. A veteran of the  wars in Croatia and Bosnia, Mr. Stanic blames the pro-Western  government of President Boris Tadic for the economic hardships of poor  and rural Serbs.</p>
<p>The mayor said he had trouble spelling out the reasons for the  bitterness of the locals over the arrest and the way it was carried out.  But Lazarevo’s feeling of loss at Mr. Mladic’s arrest is probably  linked to the shift in Serbia’s political tides since he was first  indicted in The Hague in 1995.</p>
<p>The nationalist president at the time, Slobodan Milosevic, backed the  Bosnian Serbs and loudly condemned the West, making Serbia a pariah in  Europe. He was later prosecuted at The Hague himself, and died in 2006  before his trial could be completed. By contrast, the current president,  Mr. Tadic, and his government are firmly pro-Western and want Serbia to  join the European Union.</p>
<p>Local residents sense that public support of Mr. Mladic is not quite so  politically correct today. “I’m a reasonable man,” said Branko Petrovic,  61, a retired police officer. “If he committed war crimes, then he  should be punished.”</p>
<p>Even so, Mr. Petrovic said, he regretted the arrest, and he noted that <a title="More about Mr. Oric, via The Hague Justice Portal" href="http://www.haguejusticeportal.net/eCache/DEF/6/029.html">Naser Oric</a>,  the wartime commander of the Muslim force at Srebrenica, was sentenced  in 2006 to just two years in prison for war crimes committed by his  side, a much lighter penalty than Mr. Mladic would be likely to face if  convicted. In 2008, a United Nations appeals court overturned Mr. Oric’s  conviction.</p>
<p>Many people here and elsewhere in Serbia dismiss the tribunal’s evidence  against Mr. Mladic and others, and insist that Serbs committed no  atrocities in the Yugoslav wars, or at least, none worse than those of  the Croats or Muslims. And they see little gain for Serbia in handing  over Mr. Mladic for trial. “No one cares about the E.U. here,” Mr.  Stanic said. “Only Tadic and his dogs.”</p>
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		<title>Turkey Plans Internet Filtering</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/05/turkey-plans-internet-filtering/</link>
		<comments>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/05/turkey-plans-internet-filtering/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 May 2011 20:06:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Audio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[My Work]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[censorship]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[internet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turkey]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=615</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[How would you like the government to filter your internet usage? Family style? Children style? Domestic style? Or would you prefer the standard package? Internet users in Turkey will soon have to make that choice.  Turkey often presents itself as the leading democracy in the middle east but free speech advocates say internet censorship there is among the heaviest in the world. And its about to get worse. As Matthew Brunwasser reports from Istanbul, protestors gathered across Turkey to express their opposition.

(Photo: Matthew Brunwasser)
Thousands of protestors marched down Istikal Cadesi, Istanbul’s main  pedestrian street. They chanted and waved signs. One poster put a  Turkish twist on Barack Obama’s campaign slogan. It read “Yes we ban.”
The protestors were demanding that the Turkish government take its hands off the Internet.
The demonstrators considered the proposed new filters as just the  latest step to tighten the government’s control over the Internet.  Turkish officials say the filters are not about censorship. They are  meant to protect children and families from harmful content on the  Internet. But protestor Melike Ozbek says the authorities can’t be  trusted.
“The thing is that people do not know,” said Ozbek. “That’s the  problem with the government; they are lying all the time, to their own  voters, to their own people. They are lying all the time. It’s a lie  that they are not censoring. This is to show people they are being  fooled, to be able to create some sort [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>How would you like the government to filter your internet usage? Family style? Children style? Domestic style? Or would you prefer the standard package? Internet users in Turkey will soon have to make that choice.  Turkey often presents itself as the leading democracy in the middle east but free speech advocates say internet censorship there is among the heaviest in the world. And its about to get worse. As Matthew Brunwasser reports from Istanbul, protestors gathered across Turkey to express their opposition.<span id="more-615"></span></p>
<p><object classid="clsid:02bf25d5-8c17-4b23-bc80-d3488abddc6b" width="100" height="100" codebase="http://www.apple.com/qtactivex/qtplugin.cab#version=6,0,2,0"><param name="src" value="http://media.theworld.org/audio/051620113.mp3" /><embed type="video/quicktime" width="100" height="100" src="http://media.theworld.org/audio/051620113.mp3"></embed></object></p>
<p>(Photo: Matthew Brunwasser)</p>
<p>Thousands of protestors marched down Istikal Cadesi, Istanbul’s main  pedestrian street. They chanted and waved signs. One poster put a  Turkish twist on Barack Obama’s campaign slogan. It read “Yes we ban.”</p>
<p>The protestors were demanding that the Turkish government take its hands off the Internet.</p>
<p>The demonstrators considered the proposed new filters as just the  latest step to tighten the government’s control over the Internet.  Turkish officials say the filters are not about censorship. They are  meant to protect children and families from harmful content on the  Internet. But protestor Melike Ozbek says the authorities can’t be  trusted.</p>
<p>“The thing is that people do not know,” said Ozbek. “That’s the  problem with the government; they are lying all the time, to their own  voters, to their own people. They are lying all the time. It’s a lie  that they are not censoring. This is to show people they are being  fooled, to be able to create some sort of spark in their head, to check  what’s going on so that maybe then they will understand.”</p>
<p>Not all of the protestors were Internet savvy youngsters. Gul Albay,  56, said this was her first protest in more than 30 years. She only uses  the Internet for work but feels the filters proposal is scary.</p>
<p><a name="slideshow"></a></p>
<p>“This is really very very bad, it’s really a big damage for freedom because the Internet is so big and so deep,” Albay said.</p>
<h3>Choosing a Filter</h3>
<p>The new regulations are set to come into force on August 22. Users  will have to choose one of four filters. One is called the family filter  and another is for children. The domestic filter blocks all foreign  sites. And the standard package will be the default. Yaman Akdeniz, a  law professor at Bilgi University, worries that Turkish authorities will  use these filters to step up control of the Internet.</p>
<p>“They are not telling us whether there will be monitoring of  everyone’s habits and usage, since everyone will have a user name and  password under this system,” said Azdeniz.</p>
<p>The head of the telecommunications regulatory agency, Tayfun Acarer  appeared on television and denied that any filters would be mandatory.  He said that the measures are meant only to enforce Turkish law.</p>
<p>“Turkey is more transparent than many other countries regarding this  issue,” Acarer said. “I want to emphasize this. When you go to a banned  site in a European country, you see only a flag or a stop sign. But if a  web site is blocked in Turkey, it is always clearly stated when, why  and by which institution the page was banned.</p>
<h3>Eksi Sozluk</h3>
<p>Turkey has closed thousands of websites. One was Eksi Sozluk, or Sour  Dictionary, one of Turkey’s first, biggest and freest online  communities.</p>
<p>The founder of Eksi Sozluk, Sedat Kapanoglu, says the authorities shut down the site because one user said he liked marijuana.</p>
<p>“They closed the whole website because of one single entry under  single topic,” said Kapanoglu. “The ban took two months. We didn’t know  about the ban actually because we thought it was a technical problem.”</p>
<p>Kapanoglu said his website has two software developers and five lawyers. He’s bracing for the financial impact of the filters.</p>
<p>“Eksi Sozluk contains adult content, so I don’t think we will make it  to family packet or children’s packet,” Kapanoglu said. “I don’t think  that will happen. It will impact our revenue as well.”</p>
<p>A non-profit press freedom group has filed a lawsuit. It’s seeking an  injunction against the filters, based on administrative and  constitutional violations. A court decision is expected by the end of  June.</p>
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		<title>The Haunting Persistence of Albanian Blood Feuds</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/05/the-haunting-persistence-of-albanian-blood-feuds/</link>
		<comments>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/05/the-haunting-persistence-of-albanian-blood-feuds/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 May 2011 22:10:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Audio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Albania]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blood feud]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=643</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Albania has had a vibrant if somewhat messy democracy since the fall of communism in the early 1990s. But while Albanian politics have evolved, other aspects of society have remained in the dark ages. In murder cases, victims families sometimes refer to a traditional legal code dating back to the 15th Century. It&#8217;s called the Kanun. Meditators are now trying to end this practice and resolve conflicts peacefully. From Fan in Northern Albania, Matthew Brunwasser reports.


(Photo: Jodi Hilton)
The jagged mountains of northern Albania have kept the locals  relatively free from state control for centuries. The mountains have  also helped preserve ancient traditions like the kanun. We’re traveling  with mediator Pashk Lleshi from the National Reconciliation Committee.
“The kanun is not enforced properly,” Lleshi says. “The kanun was the  constitution and the penal code of its time. It was the main legal  instrument which prevented people from killing each other. The kanun  doesn’t say you can kill a woman or a child. It doesn’t say you can kill  for a piece of land or an offensive word. To the contrary, it contains  the foundation for reconciliation between families in conflict.”
The kanun was a set of traditional rules about all aspects of daily  life adopted in the 15th century. But Lleshi says these days people  often misuse the kanun to justify all kinds of criminal revenge. Today  he’s trying to unravel a complex conflict involving the 1997 shooting  deaths of two [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Albania has had a vibrant if somewhat messy democracy since the fall of communism in the early 1990s. But while Albanian politics have evolved, other aspects of society have remained in the dark ages. In murder cases, victims families sometimes refer to a traditional legal code dating back to the 15th Century. It&#8217;s called the Kanun. Meditators are now trying to end this practice and resolve conflicts peacefully. From Fan in Northern Albania, Matthew Brunwasser reports.</p>
<p><span id="more-643"></span></p>
<p><object classid="clsid:02bf25d5-8c17-4b23-bc80-d3488abddc6b" width="100" height="100" codebase="http://www.apple.com/qtactivex/qtplugin.cab#version=6,0,2,0"><param name="src" value="http://media.theworld.org/audio/051820118.mp3" /><embed type="video/quicktime" width="100" height="100" src="http://media.theworld.org/audio/051820118.mp3"></embed></object></p>
<p>(Photo: <a href="http://www.jodihilton.com/">Jodi Hilton</a>)</p>
<p>The jagged mountains of northern Albania have kept the locals  relatively free from state control for centuries. The mountains have  also helped preserve ancient traditions like the kanun. We’re traveling  with mediator Pashk Lleshi from the National Reconciliation Committee.</p>
<p>“The kanun is not enforced properly,” Lleshi says. “The kanun was the  constitution and the penal code of its time. It was the main legal  instrument which prevented people from killing each other. The kanun  doesn’t say you can kill a woman or a child. It doesn’t say you can kill  for a piece of land or an offensive word. To the contrary, it contains  the foundation for reconciliation between families in conflict.”</p>
<p>The kanun was a set of traditional rules about all aspects of daily  life adopted in the 15th century. But Lleshi says these days people  often misuse the kanun to justify all kinds of criminal revenge. Today  he’s trying to unravel a complex conflict involving the 1997 shooting  deaths of two innocent bystanders.</p>
<p>The mediation process seems mainly made up of chatting over coffee  and cigarettes. We stop in a café to meet Mark Zeff Llesh, the cousin of  one of the victims.</p>
<p>“The families of the victims have adopted a very humane attitude  toward the family of the killer,” Llesh says. “We haven’t been stalking  them or pursing them. We have showed an exceptionally high level of  endurance and patience in the face of the violence and disgrace that  befell our family on the street.”</p>
<p>Our next stop is the house of the killer Ndue Gjonkolaj, currently  serving 25 years in prison. We’re let into the front yard by one of  Gjonkolaj’s sons. According to Albanian tradition, the oldest man of the  house should greet us before we enter. So we wait with mediator Lleshi  for the oldest son to return.</p>
<p>“We have been to the victim’s family’s house before but this is our  first time here,” Lleshi says. “This back and forth communication is  going to continue for some time, until we can have them all sit down  together, shake hands and have a coffee together.”</p>
<p>When the son returns, we are welcomed into the house. Inside, the  family greets us formally, standing in a line. Wife Dila Gjonkolaj is  dressed in black out of respect for those killed by her husband. She  says the tragedy all started because of a dispute over the sale of some  lumber.</p>
<h3>Curses and Insults</h3>
<p>“They started to argue,” she says. “They offended each other with  curses and insults. And then in the end, three men grabbed my husband by  the throat. They got out of the car and reached for their guns and  started shooting at each other. Both sides were spared their own bullets  and two bystanders were killed unintentionally.”</p>
<p>13 years later, she feels the time has come for reconciliation. Her  family has spent years asking for forgiveness through envoys and  respecting the honor of the victims families by mourning and avoiding  any possible contact.</p>
<p>“For two years after the killing, I didn’t leave the house except for  very rare occasions when I was escorted,” Gjonkolaj says. “It’s not  because I was threatened, but out of respect for the victims’ families.  My eldest son at the time was 13, he didn’t set foot off the family  compound for four years. He quit going to school in the eighth grade.”</p>
<h3>Killed at Anytime</h3>
<p>While Gjonkolaj says her family still hasn’t been threatened all  these years later, they are still afraid. They still haven’t gotten a  besa, or reprieve from the victims’ relatives. So it’s understood that a  male member of her family could be killed anytime he steps out of the  house.</p>
<p>The job of mediator Lleshi seems to be leading an endless series of  informal chats. Reconciliation depends on men willing to talk and lots  of coffee and rakia, a strong homemade grape brandy. The victims’  friends and relatives gathered here say the main holdout in this blood  feud is Tonin, the brother of one of the victims.</p>
<p>“The kanun values more the one that forgives than the one who avenges  with blood,” says Ndue Nikolli, a friend of one of the victims. “The  rifle of he who forgives is more valuable than the rifle of one who has  used it to kill.”</p>
<p>The talk becomes more Shakespearean, as the men drink more and discuss justice, forgiveness and the honor of the dead.</p>
<p>“Tonin for the moment doesn’t want to see anyone regarding this  issue,” says Pjeter Frroku, a cousin of one of the victims. “Our job is  to try, but the final word is his.”</p>
<p>The drama of the kanun and blood feuds has formed the plot of feature  films and proves difficult to unravel. Albanians want to move beyond  the cliché of a primitive people obsessed with blood and revenge. The  Gjonkolajs hope their real world horror story comes to an end.</p>
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		<title>South Sudan as NGOistan</title>
		<link>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/05/south-sudan%e2%80%99s-reliance-on-ngos/</link>
		<comments>http://matthewbrunwasser.com/index.php/2011/05/south-sudan%e2%80%99s-reliance-on-ngos/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 May 2011 12:28:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jonah</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Audio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[My Work]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The World]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Juba]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NGO]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[South Sudan]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matthewbrunwasser.com/?p=607</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[International non-governmental organizations often play a key role in developing new nations or rebuilding wartorn ones. NGOs are doing both those things in South Sudan. Africa&#8217;s newest country is in the process of emerging from a region that was torn apart by decades of civil war. Right now South Sudan is almost entirely run by NGOs. From the capital Juba, Matthew Brunwasser reports.

(Photo: Caroline Gluck/Oxfam)
Operation Lifeline Sudan, launched by the United Nations  in 1989, was  one of the biggest humanitarian efforts ever seen. It  brought together  UN agencies and some 35 non-governmental organizations  (NGO).
Decades of civil war ended in 2005, when a peace treaty gave the  south defacto autonomy. The former rebel group — the SPLA — has been  governing the south ever since. Vassar College Political Scientist  Zachariah Mampilly says the situation created an unsustainable  relationship between foreign NGOs and the SPLA.
“The SPLA focuses on legal and policing issues to provide a degree of  stability in areas that they controlled, and they basically outsourced  the rest of governance provision, health care, education, to  international NGOs,” Mampilly said. “Inevitably, they are going to have  to deal with this question of how do you get the NGOs to follow the  directives of the new government of South Sudan?”
In the wake of January’s vote for independence, the SPLA will have to  take full responsibility for all aspects of governing. That won’t be  easy. Aaron Shapiro, from [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>International non-governmental organizations often play a key role in developing new nations or rebuilding wartorn ones. NGOs are doing both those things in South Sudan. Africa&#8217;s newest country is in the process of emerging from a region that was torn apart by decades of civil war. Right now South Sudan is almost entirely run by NGOs. From the capital Juba, Matthew Brunwasser reports.</p>
<p><span id="more-607"></span><object classid="clsid:02bf25d5-8c17-4b23-bc80-d3488abddc6b" width="100" height="100" codebase="http://www.apple.com/qtactivex/qtplugin.cab#version=6,0,2,0"><param name="src" value="http://media.theworld.org/audio/041420113.mp3" /><embed type="video/quicktime" width="100" height="100" src="http://media.theworld.org/audio/041420113.mp3"></embed></object></p>
<p>(Photo: Caroline Gluck/Oxfam)</p>
<p>Operation Lifeline Sudan, launched by the United Nations  in 1989, was  one of the biggest humanitarian efforts ever seen. It  brought together  UN agencies and some 35 non-governmental organizations  (NGO).</p>
<p>Decades of civil war ended in 2005, when a peace treaty gave the  south defacto autonomy. The former rebel group — the SPLA — has been  governing the south ever since. Vassar College Political Scientist  Zachariah Mampilly says the situation created an unsustainable  relationship between foreign NGOs and the SPLA.</p>
<p>“The SPLA focuses on legal and policing issues to provide a degree of  stability in areas that they controlled, and they basically outsourced  the rest of governance provision, health care, education, to  international NGOs,” Mampilly said. “Inevitably, they are going to have  to deal with this question of how do you get the NGOs to follow the  directives of the new government of South Sudan?”</p>
<p>In the wake of January’s vote for independence, the SPLA will have to  take full responsibility for all aspects of governing. That won’t be  easy. Aaron Shapiro, from the Samaritan’s Purse, an American faith-based  organization (FBO), or a religious NGO, says NGOs still provide basic  services in maybe 90 percent of South Sudan.</p>
<p>“It’s a catch 22 in that if all the NGOs left, eventually something  would have to give,” Shapiro said. “The government would have to be  responsible, be held to account but if they all left, a lot of people  would die without health care and clean water.”</p>
<p>Jok Madut Jok, an American-educated anthropologist who returned last  year to become undersecretary of South Sudan’s Culture Ministry, says  he’s well aware of the bind his government is in.</p>
<p>“If we dictate how we use help from outside, we will be accused of  being too controlling; if we let the donor community tell us what to do  with our nation, we won’t have a nation,” Jok said. “It would be a  nation conceived and delivered by foreigners; it will not be raised from  within our own philosophies; something that we own, that will fit in  our traditions and our culture, something that will be symbolic of us  being a sovereign state.”</p>
<p>The government in Juba is feeling pressure to provide more services  itself. But it lacks what NGO types call “capacity.” There’s a short  supply of educated, experienced and motivated administrators. And its  institutions are far from solid. South Sudanese have only just begun to  make their own.</p>
<p>And there’s another unforeseen consequence of having a country run by  NGOs … armies of young, foreign do-gooders. There are so many  20-something Americans working at places like Save the Children that  Juba can appear like a massive fraternity party.</p>
<p>At the Juba chapter of the Hash House Harriers, there’s a “drinking  club with a running problem” that’s popular worldwide, especially with  expats. This video of a charity fundraiser was posted online.</p>
<p>Marina Peter has worked as an advocate on peace and reconciliation  issues in Sudan for 25 years. She says Sudanese have a lot of respect  for their elders so young NGO staff can be hard to swallow.</p>
<p>“They see these young people coming in and telling them what they  should do,” Peter said. “Very often with no experience in Africa, let  alone in Sudan, and they are running these NGOs with thousands if not  millions of dollars, and so people are saying but who are they, they  don’t listen to us, they don’t ask what we really need. And they are  just disconnected from our society.”</p>
<p>The large numbers of internationals and their international salaries  create a separate economy as well. Juba has Thai, Indian and Chinese  restaurants. There’s a Cuban place with a weekly salsa night. Locals say  its one of the most expensive cities in the world. It’s normal to pay a  hundred dollars a night to sleep in a tent.</p>
<p>With full South Sudanese independence expected in July, the threat  from Khartoum is receding. So the public expects less money spent on the  military and security and more for schools, hospitals and roads.</p>
<p>And that means the country must learn to take care of itself and stop depending on NGOs.</p>
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